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October 18, 2010

How to Repair a Ground Blind

Filed under: Ground Blinds — Tags: , , — @ 2:07 pm

Ground blinds are designed to be tough enough for outdoor use, keeping you warm and dry in the rain, snow, and wind. But prolonged exposure to weather conditions such as heavy snow or high winds can take your ground blind beyond the breaking point. And sometimes accidents just happen. When a rod breaks, the fabric tears, or the roof starts leaking, a few simple repairs can get your ground blind back in shape without the cost of a new blind.

Repairing Ground Blind Hubs, Rods, and Poles

Ground blind poles can break under undue stress from weather or improper handling.

Ground blind poles can break under undue stress from weather or improper handling.

Hunters who leave their ground blind outside in heavy snow or strong winds often find that a few of the poles have snapped under the weight of the snow or the force of the wind. Another common reason for broken poles is stress placed on the poles because of improper setup.

If your hunting blind is still under warranty, contact the manufacturer for replacement parts. If the blind is no longer under warranty, you may still be able to order parts from the manufacturer.

Depending on the style of the rods and hubs, you may be able to fashion your own fiberglass poles. Other hunters have done so using replacement tent poles, electric fence rods from a tractor supply, or driveway markers. Just make sure the rods are the same diameter and length as the original rods. Also, if your blind is under warranty, the manufacturer may void the warranty if the blind is altered in this way.

To avoid breaking the poles again, make sure you are correctly setting up the blind to avoid placing stress on the rods and hubs. Watch the instructional videos for KillZone blinds for a visual demonstration. Setting up your blind is simple, but if done incorrectly, it can damage the blind.

Repairing Torn Fabric or Mesh

Repair tears in the fabric the same way you would repair a camping tent. Repair kits are available online or in stores. If possible, use the same fabric material and weight to patch the blind. For a stronger repair job, patch both sides of the fabric. To hide the patch job and preserve the camouflage pattern, patch only the inside of the fabric.

To repair shoot-through mesh, see our article on How to Repair or Replace Shoot Through Mesh on a Hunting Blind.

Waterproofing a Ground Blind

If the roof starts to leak, the fabric may need a new waterproof coating or the seams may need to be sealed. Use a waterproofing spray and/or seam sealer to keep out rain and moisture. Then let the blind sit outside for a few days to get rid of the odor from the spray and sealant.

March 18, 2010

How to Repair or Replace Shoot Through Mesh on a Hunting Blind

Shoot Through Mesh on the 360 Ground Blind

Shoot Through Mesh on the 360 Ground Blind

As long as you follow the guidelines for shoot through mesh (no firearms or mechanical broadheads, etc.), your ground blind mesh should last a long time before it needs to be repaired or replaced. If the time finally comes when your mesh starts to wear out or become tattered, here are some tips for repairing or replacing the mesh.

Repair Tips:

The best way to repair minor holes in your shoot through mesh is to use nylon thread to sew the tear shut. Pull the thread tight to keep the mesh taut.

For a larger hole, use a small square of mesh to patch the hole. Sew the patch into the mesh and make sure the mesh stays taut.

If the hole is large enough or there are too many holes to patch, you may want to consider replacing the mesh rather than trying to repair it.

Replacement Tips:

For replacing mesh, you can either buy a mesh kit from a ground blind manufacturer or you can purchase camouflage mesh netting from an outdoor sporting goods store or a fabric store.

Use safety pins to attach the replacement mesh to the blind. Cut the old mesh out and attach the new mesh to the fabric of the zipper or to the hook-and-loop strip.

To make a gun slit, use one piece of mesh for the top of the window and one piece for the bottom of the window, letting the two pieces of mesh overlap several inches.